Copper & Zinc Gutter Installation Guide

Step-by-Step Guide On How To Install Copper or Zinc Guttering

You’ve bought a shiny new copper or zinc gutter rainwater system and now you're looking to install it? Look no further. Our easy to follow, step-by-step guide outlines the process completely; from the fitting of fascia brackets, to installing the guttering and downpipes – it’s all covered.

Where we have attempted to explain all the necessary points for easy installation, there are instances where not every eventuality can be covered. We would always advise running through these instructions in practicality to your property prior to fixing or cutting any of the copper materials. Should you find any areas not suitably covered in our steps or the manufacturers instructions (downloadable here), always seek further advice from an experienced tradesperson.

You will need

Someone to help you – it’s a two-person job
Ladder
Vice
String
Power screwdriver
Stainless steel screws
Nibblers or hacksaw or even hole cutter
Silicone sealant
Depending on your requirements; fascia, roof or internal brackets
Depending on your requirements; copper connectors
Guttering rivets
Standard plier
Pop rivet gun

Fitting your brackets

Firstly, it is good to note that for all types of copper/zinc brackets, it is advised that they are installed in a perfectly level line. The design and profile of this copper/zinc gutter system is to allow proper flow to downpipe outlets when installed level – no drop required.

As with any gutter installation process, it’s always good to double-check the gutter positioning after the brackets are fitted. This is to ensure the gutter will fully capture all rainwater run-off from the roof once installation is completed.

Fitting fascia brackets

Step 1 – Firstly, ensuring the fascia bracket is 150mm from the end of the fascia board, install one at each end of the board.

Step 2 – Using some string, run a line from each bracket to ensure they are of matching heights.

Step 3 – Space the intermediate brackets at a 1 metre equidistance, ensuring the level string is in line to the centres of each bracket.

NOTE – For continued links of guttering across all four elevations of a property, it is good practice to ensure all four corner brackets are installed first and check they are all matching heights.

Fitting roof brackets

Step 1 – For a straight run of gutter, fit a roof bracket at the last roof truss at each end of the elevation.

Step 2 - Using some string, run a line from each bracket to ensure they are of matching heights.

Step 3 - Space the intermediate brackets at around 600mm to 800mm equidistance, attaching to the relevant roof trusses and ensuring the level string is in line to the centres of each bracket.

Bending roof brackets – before tiles/slates laid

Place the tail of the bracket into a vice and carefully bend to the required angle as per the pitch of the roof. It’s a good timesaver to leave the correctly bent bracket in the vice as a guide when bending the rest of the required brackets to the same angle.

Bending roof brackets – after tiles/slates laid

Following the same step as above but the bracket will also be required to be twisted to a 90-degree angle so that it can be suitably installed to the roof truss.

Fitting internal brackets

Step 1 – Make a level line marking along the top edging of the fascia board.

Step 2 – Best practice is to install all internal brackets along the fascia board prior to positioning the copper guttering. Install one bracket at each end of the fascia board, leaving a 150mm gap from the end of each side.

Step 3 - Space the intermediate brackets at around 600mm equidistance, ensuring that when the guttering is in position the top rear edge of the gutter should line up to the level line marking.

Step 4 – Once positioned correctly, screw the internal brackets directly through the gutter and into the fascia board. It is advisable to begin with the brackets at each end of the guttering first, followed by the brackets in between.

Fitting Swiss outlets

Step 1 – Position the Swiss outlet as required onto the gutter length and mark accordingly.

Step 2 – Using either nibblers or a hole cutter, cut out the hole. Don’t worry about neat workmanship here as the hole will be covered by the outlet.

Step 3 – Position the Swiss outlet back over the hole and secure in place by bending over the back tags.

Step 4 – To secure, drill and rivet the outlet from the exterior of the guttering, ideally using 2 rivets.

Fitting Spigots

Step 1 – Position the spigot as required onto the copper gutter and mark accordingly.

Step 2 – Using either nibblers or a hole cutter, cut out the hole. Depending on the downpipe diameter, this hole must be cut to the according diameter.

Step 3 – To secure, apply the sealant around the lip and fit into position.

Stop ends

Simply pop rivet any stop ends into place followed by sealant to ensure it is completely watertight.

Gutter Lengths

Straight runs

Step 1 – Using you pre-installed brackets, place the first section of gutter into position.

Step 2 – The next section of gutter must overlap the first by between 30 to 50mm – ensuring generous amounts of sealant are applied prior to sliding together.

Step 3 – To secure, ensure the joint is thoroughly pop riveted in conjunction with further sealant applied inside.

Corners

Step 1 – Using the same principle of a 30 to 50mm overlap, ensure the corner is fitted with sealant and pop rivets, as above.

Step 2 – Once all corners and lengths of gutter are joined, place the gutter into the pre-fitted brackets, bending over the back brackets to hold the gutter in place.

Step 3 – Fasten to the brackets using a pop rivet so that the gutter is securely fitted within the bracket.

Ogee and box styles

Both ogee and box styles of the copper gutter range are joined via the pre-fitted internal copper joints.

Step 1 – Applying sealant within the grooves of the internal joints to form a continuous length covering the curves and corners of the joint fully.

Step 2 – After sliding two lengths of gutter together and clamp into place – ideally between two pieces of timber as to protect the copper gutter from marking or misshaping.

Step 3 – To secure, ensure the joint is thoroughly pop riveted in conjunction with further sealant applied inside.

Fitting your downpipes

Depending on your building and the positioning of the downpipe outlet, you may need to fit a swan neck so that the downpipe can be fitted closer to the wall. Alternatively, there are a variety of brass spacers available to accommodate downpipes that are positioned further away from the wall.

Step 1 – Use a plumb bob down from the downpipe outlet and mark the positioning against the wall.

Step 2 – Fit a downpipe clip near to the top and bottom of the downpipe – followed by others spaced at equidistance apart using 1.5 metres as a rule.

Step 3 – Allowing for are any shoes that might be used or outlets to drains, cut the length of downpipe to the required size using a hacksaw or nibblers.

Step 4 – Fit the downpipe, ensuring the open swaged end acts as the female joint at the top.

Some frequently asked questions when installing copper or zinc guttering

How far apart should the gutter brackets be?

After installing a bracket at each end of a straight run of your gutter, intermediate brackets should normally then be spaced at about a 1 metre equidistance from one another.

What is the correct fall for copper and zinc guttering?

This copper gutter system is designed to be installed level and does not require any fall.

What angle should gutters be hung?

No drop or fall is required for these guttering systems. The design allows for proper flow when installed perfectly level.

How many rivets do I need?

Two rivets are required per joint of half round gutter components and four rivets are needed for ogee and box gutter joints.

How much sealant do I need?

One tube of silicone sealant for copper and zinc gutters will seal the following amount of joins:

Standard half round - 32 x joins
Large half round - 20 x joins
Standard box - 16 x joins
Standard ogee - 16 x joins
Large box - 10 x joins
Large ogee - 10 x joins

Will I need a downpipe connector?

A downpipe connector for copper and zinc guttering is only necessary if you cut the downpipe and want to use the offcuts.